Day 49, Escalante. Day trip along the Escalante River Gorge (17 mile trek.)

Despite an agreed 'rest day', Matt woke at his usual unholy time and so we found ourselves ready to go by 8am. For a change however, our tent remained pitched and bikes locked; this was our planned day-hike along the Escalante river.

We stopped by the store to see Michelle but she had been replaced by an equally cheerful colleague. After discussing possible alternative routes, we departed for  our original hike along the river (via Subway for breakfast; obviously.) Somewhat guiltily, we consumed our takeaway subs in the Escalante graveyard just by our hike trailhead -it was the only shady spot and we stayed clear of actual graves. Ambling along the river, we stopped to let three cowboy-types on horseback overtake us (one tipped his hat; nice.) Our trail meanders by the waterside but we found it easier to simply traipse through the low river in sodden trainers. And so we continued, for 15 miles. At most points the river was more a trickle, still we encountered countless tiny toads; two small snakes and a few startled deer. It was all very Huckleberry Finn at low-tide.

For hours we crossed between sandy track and through the low river; with expected results on our wet, clumpy trainers. We passed under gorge walls which towered above us and changed in colour like a kaleidoscope. A lucky tip-off back at the store helped Matt discover some petrified dinosaur footprints in an exposed layer of sandstone (which we would never have recognised as such without a heads-up!) Towards the end of the trailhead we saw the famed natural arch and bridge in the mighty rock above us. Utah loves its' natural bridges; they decorate every license plate here.

Afer hours of rambling (seven)-we reached the roadside and cleaned the diabolical quantities of mud from our shoes. Now all we needed was a ride back to Escalante; 14 uphill miles. While I was anxious, Matts' friendly Brit-abroad ambiance (small shorts?)-ensured that a dread-locked hippie dude soon stopped to pick us up. He was on his way to deliver chainsaw oil and supplies to one of the arboricultural teams working in the gorge. They are on a tireless quest to eradicate non-native, invasive tree species. We learned from our right-on driver that the teams of eco-warriers worked 6-week shifts to protect the local forests. In his beat-up car, we swiftly burned up the hills it has taken us so much sweat and determination to cycle up the day before.

In Escalante, our saviour-dude insisted on leaving us a brand new water-filter (if we had to rely on streams for hydration)-and delivered us to our campsite. What a legend. Within an hour, we were back at our campsite with grocery-bought food and beer; marveling at the great views and people we seem to meet at every turn.