Day 15, Rough River to Owensboro KY, 54 miles

We woke early, packed up camp and were on the road for our earliest exit yet: 7:10am! This is actually a late start for seasoned tourers, and as we rolled down lonely highways in the cool breeze, I started to realise what those pros are on about... It was cool, quiet and we had 20 miles down by 9am... I could join the flock of the Early Birds! The scenery was text-book country Americana: rolling hills, picturesque farms and corn fields, small towns that consisted of a gas station, a mechanics and a sprawl of well groomed lawns and houses.

We stopped for breakfast at a gas station at Fordstown; coffee and sugary snacks over a chat with the young attendant. Matt asked him how far to the town of Owensboro, I asked whether it was in a 'wet county'!..We were feeling patriotic today, and were bound off-route for the comparative metropolis of Owensboro (the towns our route passes through are one-horse jobs; strictly campsites and churches for accommodation.) However today we required a motel; with television to watch our old hometown, London, launch the olympics. Our local guide at the gas station looked blankly when we mentioned the olympics; as if this was some foreign sport he had no business in. The main thing was that he assured us we would find motels and beer in Owensboro; just over 20miles from where we sat. When quizzed him on the whole dry/wet county phenomenon, he just shrugged 'We drive down the road...Some get it delivered'. Caffeinated and with the games on our mind, we sprinted down the road.

About 10 miles on, Matts' Tortoise Rescue had another call. Before helping the little critter across the road, Matt couldn't resist placing the tiny mascot t-shirt from his old company on its' shell for a (the t-shirt came with a bear but the bear couldn't fit in our stuffed bags.) Once the tortoise had become an unwitting sponsor for JBA, he and we both continued on our travels.

The next 20 miles passed more corn fields, bean fields, silos and farms before hitting the outer suburbs of Owensboro. We knew just as soon as we had arrived in the town-proper; it was like cycling into a tv commercial break. Hardees! Arbees! Wendys! Dennys! Huge neon signs on tall posts loomed around the highway. As we cycled hard to keep up with the traffic, I was just able to scan a billboard which read: 'All of society's problems are a direct result of overbreeding amongst the working class'... I was unable to make out the footnote of which particular political party had sponsored this message, but it was a memorable break from the usual automobile or fastfood propaganda!

There were no hotel signs we could see so we stopped at a dazzlingly equipped gas station for directions. Lady luck was on our side; in the form of Lisa. Lady Lisa not only made a great cheap motel recommendation but wrote out a very precise list of directions, to get us there whilst avoiding all major highways.

We effortlessly found our Motel 6, which welcomed us with a swimming pool, air conditioning and ice machine. After over a week in a sweltering tent, these luxuries made me particularly happy about the olympics! Sadly, the channel which was broadcasting the extravaganza was so snowy that you needed an anorak to watch it... So we made a few enquiries and soon found ourselves in a sports bar 'Buffalo Wild Wings'; saluting the Queen on the big screen and downing 3 dollar beers and tater-tots. It was odd to watch such a stirring homage to all things British in an oasis of all things American (the other screens were beaming baseball and basketball; while the table beside us was occupied by a hypo Little League team and their beer-guzzling dads.) A decadent end to our 15^th day on the road. C'mon England and Australia in the medal tally (and isn't air conditioning lovely!)