Day 21, Washington to Coopers Landing, 95 miles

We slept soundly in our Rumbler campsite until 4am-when we were jolted awake by a passing freight-train. In our IPA-clouded camp setup, we had failed to contemplate this inevitability, as the train track was about 15 meters from where we lay. It felt like the train -in all its' coal-lugging might was hurtling through our flimsy tent. Still, no lasting nerve damage that several cups of coffee over breakfast couldn't reverse. We headed into town for a diner breakfast with Rex, Dianne and fellow-rumbler from Milwaulkee, Lynn. Matt ordered the Southern Special; Biscuits and gravy (which in English terms is basically scones and sausages covered in white sauce!) Invigorated, we returned to the river to help the guys pack up and await the Mayor of Washington for the Rumblers' Launch.

Today was Funny Hat day for the Ramblers, who like to theme their days. So we smiled as guys in their 80's trundled down the river carrying canoes in Sombrero hats. Rex told us proudly over breakfast how the oldest Rambler paddled into his 90's before hanging up his oar. Soon the Mayor was in park, and everyone gathered around for the send-off. To our surprise, Rex asked that we join him at the front of the congregation. The Mayor welcomed everyone; praised their paddling through this heat and hoped they would all come back to Washington sometime. Following on from the Mayor, a smiling Rex presented Matt and I to the Ramblers. Touchingly, he had even made some notes about our trip, which he read out to all. He told everyone of where we were from; our route; mileage and how very impressed he was by our adventure. Rex invited us to talk, and I was grateful when Matt took the initiative; expressing our genuine gratitude to the Rumblers. Everyone clapped, wooped and several people approached us after Rex's speech to offer advice or their phone numbers, should we need anything.

As Rex gave the Rumblers an itinerary briefing, we chatted with the petite lady Mayor. We complimented the tidy Mainstreet of the town and she was pleased we had visited the brand new library. She also said something which I found very endearingly humble for a beaurocrat; 'Sometimes I just can't believe I'm Mayor of this great town!'-in a sweetly girlish way. Golly!

So it was time for the River Rumblers to get Rumbling! We waved them off and when Dianne yelled 'Wish you were here' from their canoe, we shouted back 'Next time!'. Indeed we both would love to join the Rumblers one year - one for the bucket list!

After Rex's stirring speech about our trip, we peddalled onwards towards the Katy trail with revived determination. Less than an hour from Washington, we arrived at the hallowed Katy Trail. Endless, gravelled bike path without even another bike in sight. We felt like kids on new bikes at Christmas; snaking around side by side; speeding up and turning around to take photos. Without traffic or hills we both stuck our ipods on and rode at 15mph, taking a brief break off-route for lunch. We passed a few runners and bikers but full hours passed between sightings. Matt found a rock by the path to climb for a bit, while I found a turtoise to scrutinise. This is idyllic cycling and feels very retro (so I listened to some Electric Light Opera and Lou Reed on my iTunes.)

We stopped to talk to some groovy young cyclists who recommened a campsite which features Thai food and live music. They had Matt at 'food', so we pressed on and finally arrived at Coopers Landing. This riverside campsite is run by a bunch of industrious hippies (they even charge $3 for the showers!) Yet they are on to easy-money, as the trail is very dusty so we happily paid up. An old guitar-guy played the blues while we drank Blue-Ribbon beer and chowed down on Pad-se-ew. Matt got talking to an old guy who once cycled across the country but now travels by motor boat. We felt bad because the guy talked so much he barely got around to eating his Thai before he had to go and meet someone across the way. Matt chivalrously offered to take his plate to the bin (then ate his leftover spring rolls on the way there). It was good Thai and beats Gas station food. Just a perfect Day...