After packing up camp, we were greeted by Buddy. He didn't want to alarm us, but hypothermia is a real threat in these parts. So he wanted to give us two rain ponchos to take for our trip. I was so touched by this gesture and was ready to take them; but Matt has a better grasp of our load capacity than I do, and had to sadly refuse the very considerate offer. If we had to put one single phrase to Buddy, it would be 'Above and Beyond'. We were sorry to say goodbye to our Angels of Shaveno, and hope that Buddy, Patti, Ashton, Leon and Sarah Faye all stay in touch. It can be a small world!
From our campsite off-route, we whizzed down 4miles of downhill. What a way to start the day. Then we returned to US 50, where the biggest climb of our trip awaited us. Six miles of climbing to gain over 4,000 feet. Luckily the shoulder was wide, so traffic could pass us as we trudged upwards. Yesterdays' mountaineering seriously took its' toll on our thighs. By the time we reached the top of Monarch Pass, we both had trouble climbing off our bikes! But what victory; the Continental Divide! From hereonin, the water we spill falls into the Pacific. A photo-call ensued, and a curious chipmunk clamoured for air-time.
Now the reward of the uphill; just under an hour of hair-blowing downhill. The Rocky mountains towered above; while the forrest on either side of the road blurred to a rich green tunnel. Epic downhill fun.
But all good things must end, and eventually of course we had to climb again. We reached Gunnison in the early afternoon, and quickly quashed ideas of pressing on. In fact we quickly stamped out optimistic ideas of anything but finding the campsite, settting up and eating. This was our first night at the franchised campsites known as KOA (Kamps of America). Less romantic than the rustic sites of the State Parks, but warm showers have a charm of their own.
After dinner, we chatted with site-neighbours; a couple in town to see the Colorado Cycle Pro bike race (which we shamefully missed out on in favour of food.) The gentleman was into Iron Man competitions, and had just enrolled his wife in one such comp taking place in Costa Rica ('I wanted a holiday there'!) Luckily his fit wife had risen to the challenge she had unwittingly been enrolled in. We were inspired by their Iron-fitness and Matt at least has now set his sights on completing an Iron Man (I'm happy to just complete this ride!)
Temperatures dropped significantly after nightfall, and we were ready to turn in when a tall man invited us to join him by his fire. We sidled over to say thanks for the invite but we were knackered - yet found ourselves chatting for some time. Paul was a Harley Davidson rider with a novel trip companion; his perky Jack Russel (who he referred to as Baby.) Paul worked at a Correctional Facility in Michigin, and was on his annual bike tour across the States. He quipped 'I don't get paid enough to take my work with me' -and clearly these rides help clear the mind. I was sorry for our zombie-like state, as Paul struck us immediately as a very switched-on guy. We talked about his work, life on the road and his favourite parts of the country. Finally the uphills of the day defeat us, and we said goodnight to Paul.
Within minutes of hitting the sleeping mats, it was 'goodnight nurse'!
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